Run your engine.
Since warm oil drains faster than cold, run your engine for only a couple of minutes. You never want to get your engine up to full operating temperature, because the oil will be way too hot to safely drain.

Drive your car onto two ramps.
Apply the parking brake. Remove the key. Place chucks behind the wheels for safety. Put on your safety glasses and gloves.

Locate the oil drain plug and place the oil pan below it.
Consult your owner’s service manual for help in locating the oil drain plug, and remember that the oil will flow at an angle into the pan. Loosen the plug with a socket wrench.

Unscrew the plug by hand.
While unscrewing it, push the plug back toward the pan to keep oil from rushing out until you are ready to remove the plug from the hole. Be careful—that oil may be hot!

Drain old oil.
Check your owner’s service manual to find the location of the filler cap on top of your engine. Removing it makes the draining process faster because air can enter from the top.

Replace oil plug.
Once all the old oil is drained, replace and tighten the oil plug by hand, making sure it’s not cross-threaded. After the plug is hand-tight, secure it with a wrench. If indicated in your owner’s service manual, use a new drain plug gasket. Never over-tighten the drain plug.

Remove existing oil filter.
Even after you’ve drained the oil, the old oil filter can still contain hot oil. Position the oil pan under the old filter, then be very careful as you use your oil filter wrench to remove the filter. Use a rag to clean the mounting surface on the engine, and make sure the gasket from the old filter is not stuck to it.

Lubricate the new filter and screw into place by hand.
Before installing your GoldNAPAFilter, lightly coat its rubber seal with fresh oil. Check to make sure the seal is properly seated in the filter, then screw on the filter by hand. It’s usually not necessary to tighten the oil filter with the wrench, but check the filter’s instructions to be sure.

Pour in new oil.
Make sure to use a clean funnel, and pour in the amount and type of oil specified for your vehicle. Some oil may not have drained out, and you don’t want to overfill it. When you have completed pouring in the specified amount of oil, don’t forget to replace the cap.

Run the engine and look for leaks.
After you run the engine for a few minutes, check the area around the oil drain plug and the filter for leaks. If you see a leak, cut off the engine and correct it. If you see no leaks, shut off the engine and let it rest a minute or two to give the oil time to drain down.

Check the oil level.
Remove the dipstick. Wipe it off. Replace it. Then remove it again to see if it’s up to the “full mark.” If it’s not full, add the balance of the oil shown in the owner’s service manual. Finish up by removing the chucks and backing off the ramps.

Dispose of old oil and oil filter properly.
Take both to either an authorized used engine oil drop-off center or recycling center to recycle the old oil for you.

Look under the hood and find the air filter housing.
Your air filter is usually enclosed in a black plastic casing or housing. It’s either square or rectangular (on fuel-injected engines) and typically has a big air intake hose connected to it. On older vehicles with carbureted engines it will be located in a large round housing sitting on top of the engine.

Remove the top of the housing.
Start by wiping off any dirt, so it doesn’t fall down when you open the housing. Now use the appropriate tool, as indicated in your service manual, to remove the screws and or clamps that hold the top and lift off the top of the housing. If you have an older vehicle with a round air filter housing, remove the wing nut holding the air filter cover and any other clips.

Remove the old air filter.
The old air filter should lift right out. Once you remove the filter, use a clean rag to wipe any dirt and debris from the housing and the seal. Also check for cracks or damage to the interior and exterior of the housing and connecting air intake hose. Be careful that no dirt or debris falls into the carburetor or the intake during this process.

Install the new air filter.
The new air filter goes in just like the old one came out. Put on the top of the housing, replace the screws or clamps, and you’re done.

Open the glove box.
Open the glove box and take out the contents.

Remove the limiting stop arm.
The limiting stop arm is on the right side of the glove box. Just slide it off the pin.

Release the glove box.
Grasp the front and back of the glove box, squeezing them toward each other until the side clamps pop free. Now that the sides are free, you can drop down the entire glove box, so you can see the faceplate to the cabin air filter channel.

Remove the old cabin air filter.
Lift the latches on the sides of the faceplate and slide it out of the way, opening up the filter compartment. Now you can simply pull out the old cabin air filter, being careful not to scatter any dust, dirt and trash from the filter into your car. As you remove the old filter, notice which way the arrows are facing. They indicate the direction of the airflow.

Clean filter chamber and check seals and gaskets.
Before you install a fresh, new EnviroShield cabin air filter, vacuum the filter chamber, then wipe it with a damp cloth to remove any stray contaminants. Check the condition of gaskets and seals to make sure they don’t need changing as well.

Install the new cabin air filter.
Make sure the new cabin air filter matches the old one. Double check to make sure the arrows on the new filter are pointing in the same direction as the old filter you took out, and slide the new filter in.

Replace and secure the glove box.
Once the filter’s in place, just replace the faceplate, snap the glove box back in place, reinstall the limiting stop, and put everything back in the glove box